Modern cosmetology are widely using various kinds of acids. They are frequently used in salons include the composition of the professional cosmetics, including creams, lotions and tonics for home use.
Acids are natural components of skin and are involved in processes of cell metabolism and gas exchange. The decrease in the concentration of autologous acids with age disrupts the normal cell activity and is one of the factors of aging. Professional treatments and home care make up for their loss and support the necessary concentration of the desired products. In this case, often it comes about using alpha or beta hydroacids.
The group of carboxylic acids includes a wide range of not very acidic substances, the combined content in its composition carboxyl groups. Due to the variety of properties and characteristics many of them have been successfully used in aesthetic medicine and cosmetic products.
|The types of acids||Example||Properties||Application|
|Emulsifiers, stabilizers||On the basis of these acids creates a lot of varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in cosmetics as stabilizers for emulsions.|
|Compensate for a deficiency of epidermal lidido and strengthen the epidermal barrier. Creating a protective film, prevent the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Are antioxidants.||Included in the night and day creams, cleansing milk for cleansing the skin.|
|Eliminate hyperkeratosis, create conditions for improving the skin's moisture. Stimulate the production of ceramides, collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.||At concentrations up to 10% are used in cosmetic products: cream, lotion, tonic , including home care. In high concentrations only apply in the salon conditions for the exfoliations' and superficial peels.|
|Beta hydroacids(VNA-acid)||Salicylic||Exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces sebum production, removes impurities from the pores. Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory effect.||Used for peelings: alone as an exfoliant or as a basis for challenging medio peels - retinoic or Gessner. Included in creams, lotions, tonics for oily and problem skin.|
|Polyhydroxylated (RNA)||Gluconic acid||Has a high molecular weight, has a more gentle effect without causing irritation. Prevents aging, stimulates the production of elastin, increases skin protective properties. Blocks up to 50 percent of UV radiation.||Included in the anti-aging program skin care with high sensitivity.|
|Trichloroacetic acid(TCA)||Penetrates the skin deeper than fruit acids. The principle of action - coagulation protein.||For medio of TCA peel.|
Fruit AHA-acids, water, and BHA is fat-soluble. This fundamental difference determines the use of acids in cosmetics. The best known BHA acid is salicylic - penetrate the lipid barrier deep within the pores, so it can affect the sebaceous glands and reduce their excessive activity. Its main purpose is the treatment of acne and blackheads, rejuvenate oily and problem skin. AHA are more suitable for skin care in photodamage, age spots, age hyperkeratosis and dryness. Polyacids RNA are assigned with sensitive skin, stress, low local immunity.
Glycolic acid in cosmetics is the most effective and therefore the most researched of all AHA-acids. Significant popularity it has gained after it has proven its ability to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. An additional advantage of glycolic acid is a relatively cheap production from sugar cane. Dermatologists Medical University, Wakayama (Japan) have proven the effectiveness of high concentrations of this substance in the treatment of severe acne. Glycolic acid in cosmetics also successfully applied to enhance the level of moisture in all layers of the skin.
E. I. hernández, in his book "Cosmetic peeling" refers to a number of authoritative studies in cosmetology, who spoke about the application of glycolic acid, depending on concentration:
On the second place on popularity and knowledge in cosmetology is lactic acid. Also, as glycol, this substance has a good exfoliating effect and helps to eliminate the signs of Chrono - and photoaging. The effectiveness of lactic acid a little less, but the risk of irritation from its use below.
Lactic acid is considered to be more physiological for skin. Its molecules one atom more molecules of glycolic acid, so they are slower and more evenly penetrate the epidermis and destroy the intercellular connections. Created lactic acid environment prevents the growth of pathogenic bacteria, increases lipid mantle and strengthens skin immunity. These properties along with less aggression justify the use of lactic acid in cosmetics-for patients with sensitive problematic skin. Its concentration in the media for home care ranges from 3.5 to 10 percent.
Amber acid in cosmetics is called life-giving elixir for aging skin. It brightens up the excess pigment, nourishes and smoothes the skin. Succinic acid - a powerful catalyst for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) plays an important role in cellular metabolism. Due to these properties of amber acid in cosmetics is included in many anti-aging programs, home care for ageing skin. Is the source of vitality for the hair.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics is not an exfoliant. It is recognized as a powerful antioxidant, suppresses the activity of a broad spectrum of free radicals are significant reasons of skin aging, appearance of wrinkles and pigmentations. High efficiency of lipoic acid due to its ability to dissolve in water and lipid environment, which distinguishes it from many other antioxidants, particularly vitamins C and E. At the same time it does not block their action, and strengthens it.
Lipoic acid (vitamin N) hamper the process of glycation, in which the connection of the collagen fibers with the molecules of glucose and decreases the activity of the elastin. She repeatedly accelerates glucose metabolism and slows down the deformation of the skin. With early treatment from a beautician and regular use of funds with lipoic acid is observed, the reversibility of the process of glycation and reducing the signs of aging.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics also successfully applied in the treatment of scars, acne, post-acne and rosacea consequences. It normalizes the activity of sebaceous glands, reduces the severity of skin pores and restores the cell membranes and protects DNA from the aggressions of external environment.
Powerful exfoliation - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This is the most common BHA acid, capable of dissolving the connection between the Cornea cells even in the depths of the pores, i.e. to destroy blackheads. In parallel, it is as a derivative of aspirin reduces inflammation, reduces infectious processes and accelerates healing. The combination of antibacterial properties and the effect of deep cleansing determine the application of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with oily skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for home use should not exceed two percent.
First acid in the salon of cosmetology are used in the form peelings.
1. Exfoliation and superficial peels AHA-acids
The connection of hyperkeratosis with many skin diseases have been proven in 80-ies of the last century the first scientific research on AHA. Removing old stratum corneum acids are considered the most secure procedure. Choosing the right concentration of alpha-hydroacids do not cause burns to the skin and gently destroys desmosomes - strong intercellular connections of dead skin cells.
Was later proven AHA-acids to penetrate deeper than the stratum corneum and stimulate processes in the skin. However, due to the dissolution of the tight couplings arise microcirculatory channel, through which the deeper layers of the skin easier to penetrate other active substances, applied at the final stage of the procedure.
The peeling effect and depth of penetration of the acid depends on its concentration and pH:
Small acid concentration allowed for home use, medium and high are treated as drugs, appointed only by a doctor-cosmetologist of the relevant indications and are used for professional treatments in a clinic or salon.
Positive changes from peeling AHA acids do not happen overnight. For a noticeable effect requires 6-10 treatments every 7-14 days. However, as a result of the course, the skin manages fully updated without difficult recovery, peeling and serious post-gluma risks.
2. Peels BHA
Peels with salicylic acid are widely used for the treatment of acne, scars and acne scars, leveling the skin relief. This acid included in the compositions of the powerful anti-aging peels, in some cases, used as conduit for retinoic. Salicylic peels - a real salvation for people with 4 and 5 phototypes of skin. Acting as a mild exfoliant, it does not cause post-gluma complications in dark-skinned people.
3. Medial peels acids
The mechanism of action of hydroacids do not allow them to penetrate into the middle layer of the epidermis even when the concentration of. Therefore, for deeper skin renewal use other types of acids. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) coagulates proteins, causing a controlled chemical burn. In recovery there is an active regeneration and proliferation of cells both in epidermis and dermis. Pure retinoic acid - a derivative of vitamin A - in the process of peeling interacts with the fibroblasts, increases their activity and thus enhances the synthesis of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Low concentrations of acids are included in complexes, professional esthetic care, and cosmetics for the home. Regular use of such tools is more soft, but stable result.
Fatty acids thanks to the nutritional properties are the most common basis for heavy creams. Amino acids are components of proteins - important for the production of the active components of the dermal matrix and is suitable for all skin types. Mild forms of retinoid acid contain creams and serums for rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids are useful at any age and are included in the formulation of creams, tonics and serums. Salicylic acid is often found in cosmetics for teenagers, oily and problematic skin.
Regular exfoliation after 40 - a necessary condition for age care. A prerequisite of the use of drugs with hydroacids - protection from solar radiation, so many of them contain UV filters.
Funds even with low acid content it is recommended to use under medical supervision. Get them easier from the beautician, which is a program aesthetic correction. Many professional drugs can be used in the salon and at home so that you can control the flow of acids into the skin easier.